with the pilgrims in shangri-la

For the past 48 hours, I have been following pilgrims in their progress around the holy sites of Lhasa, and I have to say, this has been one of the most incredible experiences of my life. I have walked beside young, middle-aged and old Tibetans in straw hats and traditional dress as they circumnambulate the Barkhor-- the holy circuit or kora around the ancient Jokhang temple in the heart of old Lhasa-- solemnly spinning Tibetan prayer wheels or gossiping to their fellow pilgrims. I have watched a dirt-smeared pilgrim prostrate himself repeatedly as he made his way across the ancient stones of the Barkhor, with the help of smooth wooden blocks bound to his palms that allowed him to slide his hands flat on the pavement when he prostrated himself, while his 3 or 4 year old son, tethered to him by a long woven band, followed along wearing the traditional one-piece child's garment with a vertical slit over the behind (presumably allowing for quick bathroom stops), as his father made his progress past the antique shops and souvenir stands that line the pilgrim route. I have seen dozens of others do the same in stationary positions in front of the temple, with the added comforted of a cloth-wrapped board on which to prostrate themselves. I have seen young monks dressed in brilliant, deep red robes over golden shirts, some with flat shovel-shaped hats on their head, fingering prayer beads and solemnly chanting as they walk. Old Tibetan women smile at me. Some younger Tibetans call out, "Hi!" or "How you doing?" and then giggle when I respond. One monk came up behind my fellow traveler and yanked a hair from the back of his arm, and then ran ahead laughing uproariously. Another young monk asked (through signs) if I wanted to take his photo and then clamored to see the image in my camera. The Barkhor is an amazing place, full of spirituality and mercantilism, suffused with the tinkling of Buddhist bells, the smell of incense, and the incessant cries of "Lookee! Very cheap!" from the hawkers at the souvenir stands that line the route. There's so much more to say about Lhasa. More later.